Raptor 50 radio setup

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Elizabeth Howell. In contrast with the Raptor 30 manuals, a Raptor 50 manual has never been made available in electronic form by Thunder Tiger. Therefore this manual was constructed partly by scanning in parts and by manually creating the pages, and partly by copying and modifying the Raptor 30 V2 manual.

I did a very careful job in duplicating the manual, but of course I can not assume responsibility in case of errors. The duplicate has been kept as close as possible to the original manual, but at numerous places errors and typos were corrected. At many places the English text was improved, as well as the layout. Some part numbers have been corrected. A few sentences where correction would need more than changing a few words were left unchanged. The front page has been recreated in color, where the original manual is all black and white.

A colored front page is so much more inviting! I hope you enjoy the use of this electronic manual. June Wouter Pasman Netherlands. This model was designed and engineered by the World-renowned Mr. Shgetada Taya. It combines elements of his previously successful designs with today's advanced technologies. Raptor the best 50 class 3-D helicopter is now even better!

The Raptor 50 V2 is the cumulating result from all customers' feedback and tremendous research and development effort by the Thunder Tiger design team. The Raptor 50 V2 is more rugged and has even better flying performance than the original successful Raptor The Raptor 50 V2 has the best power-to- weight ratio of any 50 class helicopter on the market.

Buckle your seatbelt and get ready for incredibly fast accelerations and climb rate. With the new main rotor, 3-D pilots will enjoy executing crisp maneuvers like Climbing Tic-Toc, Chaos, Death Spirals, and any radical maneuver that pilots can dream of. Key new features include stronger mainframes, bigger fuel tank, reinforced pitch control arm, new main rotor with 6 mm spindle and bigger radial and thrust bearings, and a fresh new look body.

The V2 includes a constant drive auto rotation gear for doing aerobatics during autorotation. Beginners and advanced 3-D fliers will be very impressed with the new Raptor 50 V2. It is a sophisticated piece of equipment and is designed for hobby use only. If you are a newcomer to the hobby, it is best to seek help and guidance from accomplished model helicopter pilots. This will greatly speed up the learning process and have you flying successfully in a reasonable time.

We also would strongly urge you to join the Academy of Model Aeronautics. The AMA is a non-profit organization that provides its members with a liability insurance plan as well as monthly magazine entitled Model Aviation. All AMA charter aircraft clubs require all pilots to hold a current AMA sporting license prior to operation of their models at club fields. Make sure both the transmitter and receiver batteries are fully charged prior to operation the helicopter.

Make sure all flight controls operate properly prior to flying. Range check the radio before the first flight. The servos must operate properly with the transmitter antenna collapsed at a range of at least 50 ft. Check to make sure there is no radio interference on your radio channel before operating the helicopter.

Use only the recommended engine fuel as specified by the engine manufacturer. Make sure the transmitter and receiver are turned on before starting the engine. The engine throttle must be in the idle position before starting the engine.

Model helicopter main and tail rotors operate at high RPM. Make sure nothing can come in contact with the rotor blades during flight. After starting the helicopter, maintain a safe distance during the flight. Never operate the helicopter in rain or excessive wind conditions. Always operate and fly your helicopter in a safe and responsible manner. Never fly a model helicopter over other pilots, spectators or cars.

Inspect the model thoroughly to insure no parts have come loose or become damaged during the flight and landing. Replace damaged parts and tighten loose screws before flying again. Pump out any remaining fuel from the fuel tank. Wipe off excess oil and fuel from helicopter body and other exposed parts. Lubricate all moving parts ensures smooth operation for the next time you fly. Store model in a cool, dry place. Avoid storage in direct sunlight or near a source of heat. Following these few, simple safety rules will allow you to enjoy the thrill of model helicopter flying for many years to come.

If any item is damaged, it must be replaced with a new part to ensure safe operation. Do not glue any broken or damaged plastic part. Do not repair broken rotor blades. Always inspect the following items immediately: Engine starting shaft. All the gears. Main shaft, flybar and blade spindle. Tail boom and support. Vertical and horizontal fins.

Tail rotor shaft and control system. Main and tail rotor blades. The part number and quantity contained in each step are always shown in the square box on each page. Do not open all the bags at once. Open only the bag that is needed for the current assembly step.

Also, a fuel filter available from any hobby shop, TTR should be placed between the fuel tank 3 BK and the carburetor. Tighten the screws snugly, but do not over torque them which could strip the plastic.

Because the Raptor is so stable and flies so well, it is still in high demand 15 years after the first Raptor 30 was introduced.

The engine to main rotor gear ratio was reduced from 9. The Raptor 50 has an excellent power-to-weight ratio which makes it very agile, allowing even experienced 3D pilots to throw down maneuvers with this heli. The Raptor 50S, which I am reviewing here, was just released in October , is geared toward beginners and sport pilots who want a rugged, reliable and great value helicopter that requires minimal assembly to get airborne.

The 50S comes almost completely assembled from the factory and it includes the engine, five servos, a gyro and an engine governor—all preinstalled.

To keep the Raptor 50S affordable, Thunder Tiger chose to include wooden main rotor blades and a molded plastic main rotor hub. As the pilot progresses, the wood blades can always be replaced by optional carbon rotor blades. For beginners and intermediates, the Raptor 50 is one of the best choices if you want a nitro-powered helicopter.

This particular engine is a proven design and its 2-needle carburetor is easy to set. There is no rough running in mid-range and the idle will not die. I have had many TT Pro 50H engines over the last eight years and it is a reliable workhorse. The Raptor 50 Titan SE uses ball bearings to support all the pivoting bellcranks and mixing arms. The Raptor 50S uses bronze bushings; hence there is a bit more free play in the controls. Beginners will not notice the differences during hover or normal forward flight.

I recommend adjusting the tightness of each 3mm bolt that goes through the bronze bushings to get the minimal free play, then add oil at the bronze bushing to make the bellcranks pivot smoothly. Eventually, as the pilot becomes more proficient or feels a need to upgrade to ball bearings, a bearing upgrade is always available from Thunder Tiger.

This makes the Raptor 50 tail rotor system very durable. The Raptor 50S comes with mm long tail rotor blades which extend the diameter to give the Raptor 50 phenomenal tail power. The brand new TG heading lock gyro and ACE n high speed tail rotor servo included in the combo gives the 50S and incredible, locked-on tail control.

The Thunder Tiger toothed tail rotor drive belt is reinforced with fiber ropes inside. Even in the most violent pirouetting maneuver, the belt has never slipped. I prefer the belt over a torque tube because on a belt drive system no harm will be done if the tail blades brush the ground. With a torque tube system it is common for the tube to become damaged if the blades contact the ground or in a crash.

Most size engines reach their peak performance at around 14, to 17, rpm. If we run the engine at 15, rpm at Idle-Up 1, then the main rotor will spin at 1, rpm, which is perfect for gentle aerobatics. If we run the engine at 17, rpm at Idle-Up 2, then the main rotor will spin at 2, rpm which allows the Raptor 50S to handle aggressive 3D maneuvers. A Raptor 50 likes to hover at rpm; this means the engine is only turning at 12, rpm.

See if that needs reversal For making setup a breeze I personally setup my pitch curve temporarily to used when setting subtrim , swash level and pitches Cause as you saw in tony's videos you need to be at 50percent stick position. I highly recommend using this setting when setting up cause of not according to values I gave you, center stick won't be 50 percent pitch Next is subtrims on the servos.. Move stick to half throttle.. Now check If the servos horns are perfectly 90 degrees to the servo body If not, use subtrim menu in setup list to change those and get them to center perfectly 90degree horns to the servo body if you need me to tell you which servo is which one let me know I'll tell you that from the pics.

Do this and then get back with the results to start with. You'll get it though. It's fun! And so easy once you go through it all the way. Last edited: May 11, Please don't take this the wrong way as i don't mean any disrespect and i'm Not trying to Question your experience but according to the ar user guide it is compatable with the DX6i, it is not compatible with the DX Throttle servo and the one above wont ajust with sub trim all others are fine. I checked up on it, and yes ar is compatible..

If it wont make the servos work now.. I tested the i think.. It is perfect.. All there will be-- you will only be able to utilize the six channels you have connected there. I am all about saving man! You can opt not to do it too.. Fuselages are an expensive and tedious upgrade.. Again, this is my reading to it.. That's not always true Gaba. Just put in all of those settings and everything checks out,all servos are working,just a little fine tuning with sub trim I'm glad i did not offend you.

As far as the reciever goes, its gonna be a long time before i fly so it gives me time to save money for one i can rely on govonor also.

Just checked and Throttle servo and the one above wont ajust with sub trim all others are fine. Lee Well-Known Member. Stunt throttle curve, you put 0,85,80,85, It should be ,85,80,85, unless i'm missing some nitro specific setting. Lee was right heli66 my bad.. I changed the throttle curve of the idle up totally. This setting is for no governor. When you have a governor then curves change again. Why does the throttle servo not move by subtrim..

One above it? Which servo is that can you tell.. I am gonna download the manual here.. On your engine , does 50 percent throttle on your tx which would be a little lower than mid stick, if you look at the monitor in your tx it'll show put you at the 50 percent throttle mark on the carb? Does maximum throttle take it perfectly all the way to max with no servo bind and zero throttle is exactly aligned with the carb marking throttle trims all the low at this moment If this is confusing you right now, do this Rule of thumb on throttle: to have a linear throttle response on the engine: The travel adjustment menu on your tx for throttle servo equal percentages of travel so when you move the stick all the way up it should show percent or 90 or 80 if the servo binds.

I dont use any swash levellers.. I am willing to explain anything again if anything i said above makes you more confused, so please feel free to ask as many questions as possible, that helps me explain too.. That servo above the throttle is the pitch servo..

I just got a manual of raptor 50 sev2. OK, I think i got it. Low stick lines up with first carb mark perfect, Mid stick lines up with 3rd carb mark perfect,Full stick lines up with last carb mark perfect. The only thing i see wrong is that the throtle servo horn is not quite 90 degrees,do i need to adjust the turnbuckle? As long as you are getting the correct throw out of the carb, you should be fine.

Otherwise you will have to go through all of this setup again. On the swash and tail, you need that perfect 90 degree to the link because you are passing the center point of the servo arm travel.